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Famously, the word “aloha” has several meanings. It’s often used, I found during my stay on the Big Island of Hawaii, as a noun loosely meaning a spirit of affection or compassion, one that has persevered through a complicated and sometimes painful history. Maintaining a tourist economy is a tricky dance between locals and visitors. Native Hawaiian families have the lowest mean income of all major ethnic groups in the state. Yet property is unaffordable for many, thanks to outside speculation. Nevertheless, as a visitor in Hilo I never felt resentment; only a laid-back, welcoming warmth wherever I went.